How to Play Mas at Spicemas: Bands, Costumes and J'ouvert Survival

Watching Spicemas from the pavement is one experience; playing mas, joining a band on the road, is another altogether. Playing means registering with a band, wearing its costume or T-shirt, dancing behind its music truck with hundreds of other masqueraders, and being looked after by its crew for the day. For many Grenadians it is the highlight of the year, and visitors are welcome in almost every band.

This is a practical guide to joining in: how bands and packages work, the differences between J'ouvert, Monday Night Mas and Tuesday pretty mas, what to wear and bring, and the mistakes that most often spoil a first carnival. Costume prices, collection dates and rules differ by band and change every year, so treat the specifics here as a guide and confirm the details with the band you choose.

How mas bands work

A mas band is an organisation that designs a costume theme, produces the costumes, hires music trucks and security, and leads its masqueraders through the carnival route. Larger bands are divided into sections, each with its own costume variation, while smaller bands may have a single design. Most bands are based at a "mas camp", the workshop where costumes are made and later collected.

Bands launch their themes and costumes from around March and take registrations online or in person. Payment is usually made in instalments or in full by a deadline. In return, masqueraders receive their costume and, depending on the package, drinks on the road, some food, access to toilets on a support vehicle, and security marshals who keep spectators out of the band. Some bands focus on J'ouvert only, others on Monday Night Mas or Tuesday pretty mas, and some offer combined packages across several events.

Alongside the big commercial bands, smaller community and traditional bands play mas every year, some from particular villages or parishes. They are often cheaper, less crowded and closer to the older spirit of carnival, though with fewer facilities. For visitors who want a more local experience, asking around for such a band can be rewarding.

Choosing what to play

J'ouvert. Packages are the cheapest way to play mas, typically including a T-shirt, paint or powder, drinks and a music truck. In Grenada you can also play jab jab independently in old clothes, oil and horns, without a band, as many locals do.

Monday Night Mas. Bands provide T-shirts or simple costumes designed to be worn with lights and glowing accessories. It is relaxed, accessible and good for first-timers.

Tuesday pretty mas. The full costume experience. Costumes range from simple backline designs to frontline pieces with large feathered backpacks, and prices rise accordingly. A pretty mas costume often costs several hundred US dollars or more; frontline costumes cost considerably more.

Which band. Bands vary in size, crowd, music and age group. Look at the previous year's photos and video, ask Grenadian friends, and consider whether you prefer a big band with big trucks or a smaller, friendlier one.

Timing. Popular sections can sell out within weeks of launch, especially the women's sections of larger bands. Registering early secures the costume size and design you want.

From registration to the road: a timeline

Most bands follow a similar sequence. Keep every receipt and confirmation email, as costume collection depends on them:

1. Spring: follow bands on their official channels, compare launches and register. Pay deposits by the stated method and keep proof.
2. Early summer: pay remaining instalments by the deadline. Late payment can mean losing the costume.
3. Late July to early August: book flights and accommodation if you have not already, since carnival week fills the island.
4. Carnival week: collect costumes at the mas camp on the scheduled days, with photo identification and your registration details. Try everything on immediately and report problems on the spot.
5. The night before: confirm the assembly point and start time, prepare a small bag and plan how to get to and from the route.
6. On the road: stay with your section, follow marshals' instructions and know where the band's drinks and support vehicles are.

Surviving J'ouvert: oil, paint and practicalities

J'ouvert in Grenada is messy by design. Jab jab masqueraders use black oil, molasses, mud or charcoal, and bands may add paint and powder. Getting covered is part of the experience, but some preparation saves your skin and belongings. Rub coconut oil, baby oil or a thick moisturiser over exposed skin and into your hair before you go out: it creates a barrier that makes the oil and paint far easier to wash off. Tie hair back or cover it, and consider swimming goggles or cheap sunglasses to protect your eyes.

Wear old clothes and closed shoes you are prepared to throw away. Leave jewellery, watches and anything valuable behind, carry a small amount of cash in a zip bag, and put your phone in a sealed waterproof pouch or leave it at home. Afterwards, many people wash off in the sea before heading to their accommodation; ask your hotel or host in advance where to clean up, since some properties restrict access to rooms for guests still covered in oil. Plan a nap: Monday Night Mas starts the same evening. Eat a proper breakfast after J'ouvert too; skipping food between events is how many first-timers run out of energy by Tuesday.

Mistakes first-timers make

Carnival is safe and joyful for the vast majority of masqueraders, but a few common errors spoil the day:

• Dehydration. August heat, hours of dancing and free drinks on the truck are a risky combination. Alternate alcohol with water and eat properly.
• New shoes. Breaking in shoes on the road leads to blisters within hours. Wear comfortable, broken-in footwear or sturdy trainers.
• Missing costume collection. Collection windows are fixed. Arriving on carnival Sunday expecting to pick up a costume may be too late.
• Wandering off. Bands are large and phones may be in pouches. Agree meeting points with friends.
• Underestimating the sun. Costumes leave a lot of skin exposed; use high-factor sunscreen and reapply.
• Driving after drinking. Use taxis or arranged transport. Police operate on the roads throughout carnival.
• Ignoring consent. Carnival is exuberant, but unwanted touching is not acceptable. Bands and police take complaints seriously.

Safety, etiquette and looking after yourself

Carnival in St George's draws large crowds, and as at any big street festival, pickpocketing and occasional scuffles occur. Staying inside the roped-off band area, where security marshals operate, is the safest way to play. Carry only what you need, keep it in front of you, and be aware that police may restrict items such as glass bottles along the route. In an emergency, call 911; first-aid posts and ambulances are positioned at points along major routes.

Etiquette matters too. Jab jab culture involves smearing, but most local players know not to smear spectators who are clearly dressed for a different occasion or who make it plain they do not want to be touched. Respect the route: do not cross through a band's section, and give way to its marshals and trucks. And remember that carnival is part of Grenadian heritage, not a backdrop. Learning a little about the traditional characters and the year's big songs makes the experience much richer.

If you are travelling with children, Kiddies Carnival and the daytime parts of Monday and Tuesday are the most suitable. J'ouvert and late-night events are better left to adults.

Frequently asked questions