Carriacou is about a ninth of the size of mainland Grenada, with several thousand residents, one main town, no traffic lights and a pace that visitors either fall for immediately or find too slow. Petite Martinique, a short boat ride further on, is smaller still. Both islands are reached by the Osprey ferry from the Carenage in St George's, or by small plane to Lauriston Airport on Carriacou, and both reward a stay of several nights rather than a rushed day trip.
Accommodation on the sister islands is small-scale: guesthouses, apartments, a few small hotels and villas. Hurricane Beryl struck Carriacou and Petite Martinique as a Category 4 storm on 1 July 2024, damaging or destroying a large share of buildings, and recovery has been gradual. Some properties have reopened fully, others partially, and some not at all. Confirm the current condition of anywhere you book with recent photos and recent guest reviews.
Hillsborough: the practical base
Carriacou's only town faces Hillsborough Bay on the west coast. The police station, banks with ATMs, supermarkets, small restaurants and the bus stand are all here, and the town is the hub for the island's minibuses and taxis. Staying in or near Hillsborough means you can walk to most services and use buses to reach the beaches; the ferry from Grenada now docks at Tyrrel Bay, a short bus or taxi ride south, so confirm the departure point when booking.
The town beach is long but not the island's best for swimming, and Hillsborough is livelier on weekdays and during festivals such as the August Regatta and the December Parang Festival, when rooms in town fill first. Accommodation here tends to be guesthouses and apartments, often family-run and good value. For a first visit, especially without a car, Hillsborough is the simplest choice.
L'Esterre and Paradise Beach, Tyrrel Bay and the south-west
South of Hillsborough, the village of L'Esterre backs onto Paradise Beach, a long stretch of pale sand facing Sandy Island, the tiny palm-covered islet offshore that is part of a marine protected area. This is the area many visitors picture when they think of Carriacou: calm water, a couple of beach bars and water taxis across to Sandy Island. Guesthouses and apartments here are a short bus or taxi ride from town.
Further south, Tyrrel Bay at Harvey Vale is the island's main yacht anchorage, with a boatyard, chandlery, restaurants and bars serving the sailing community. Staying here puts you among boat crews, with sunsets over the bay and the mangrove area known as the Oyster Bed nearby. It suits visitors who like a bit of social life in the evenings, and divers, since operators have worked from this side of the island. Hurricane damage was significant around the bay, so check facilities before booking.
The north and east: Windward, Bogles and the quiet coves
Windward. On the north-east coast, Windward is the historic boatbuilding village where Carriacou sloops have been built by hand for generations, and the departure point for small boats to Petite Martinique. It is quiet and authentic, with few places to stay.
Bogles and the north-west. Near the north-west tip, the area around Bogles gives access to Anse La Roche, one of the island's most secluded beaches, reached by a trail through dry forest. Accommodation is limited to a handful of cottages and villas.
Belair and the hills. Inland heights such as Belair offer breezes and views over Hillsborough Bay, with historic ruins nearby. You will need transport or be prepared for steep walks.
Getting around from outer areas. Minibuses serve the main roads by day, taxis are available for longer hops, and car or scooter hire is possible. Evening transport is limited, so ask your host what is realistic before booking far from town.
Petite Martinique: a night or two on the smallest island
Petite Martinique has fewer than a thousand residents, a single road that circles much of the island and a long seafaring and boatbuilding tradition. It is reached by the Osprey ferry, which continues from Carriacou, or by local boats from Windward. Visitors come for the quiet, the views across to Petite St Vincent and the other islands of St Vincent and the Grenadines, and the chance to see a tight-knit island community.
Places to stay are few, typically a small guesthouse or rented rooms and apartments, and Beryl caused heavy damage here too. Book well ahead, confirm by direct contact that the property is operating, and expect basic facilities. Shops are small, so bring cash and anything specific you need from Carriacou or Grenada. Many visitors combine a night or two on Petite Martinique with a longer stay on Carriacou, which keeps ferry timing flexible.
Guesthouse, apartment or villa: choosing on Carriacou
Guesthouses are the core of Carriacou's accommodation and are usually family-run, with a handful of rooms, sometimes breakfast, and hosts who can arrange taxis, boat trips and dinner. They suit short stays and visitors who value local knowledge. Apartments, often attached to a family home or in a small block, give more independence and a kitchen, which is useful because restaurant choice is limited and some places close early or on certain days.
Villas are scattered around L'Esterre, the hills above Hillsborough and Tyrrel Bay, and along the quieter coasts. They suit families and groups staying a week or more, but they put more weight on transport, since many are beyond walking distance of shops and beaches, and on water management, because cisterns must last the whole stay. Whichever type you choose, confirm whether the room has air conditioning or relies on fans, how hot water is provided, and whether the property has backup power. After Beryl, also ask whether rebuilding work is under way on the plot or next door. Finally, check how far the property is from the nearest minibus route, because evening taxis on Carriacou need to be arranged in advance.
Practical points that differ from mainland Grenada
Staying on the sister islands involves a few practicalities that mainland visitors rarely face:
- Water. Carriacou has no permanent rivers and relies heavily on rainwater cisterns and desalinated supply. Short showers and careful use are part of island life, especially in the dry season.
- Cash. ATMs are concentrated in Hillsborough. Carry EC dollars, as smaller guesthouses, bars and taxis may not take cards.
- Ferry timing. The crossing from St George's usually takes roughly 90 minutes to two hours and can be rough in strong trade winds. Schedules change, so confirm current sailing times with the operator.
- Flights. Small-plane services between Maurice Bishop International and Lauriston Airport have been operated by regional carriers; check current schedules and baggage limits.
- Supplies. Shops are smaller and some goods arrive by boat, so selection varies week to week.
- Pace. Many businesses keep relaxed hours and some close on Sundays.
Booking during recovery: what to confirm
Since Beryl, the tourism picture on Carriacou and Petite Martinique has changed season by season as properties rebuild. Older reviews and photos may describe buildings that no longer stand or have since been rebuilt. Look for reviews from the last few months, ask the owner directly about the state of the roof, water supply, power and internet, and ask whether construction is still under way nearby, since building work can be noisy.
It is also worth confirming that restaurants and services you plan to use are open, and that your arrival fits ferry or flight times. Visiting during recovery has a positive side: tourism income supports rebuilding, and local businesses that have reopened welcome guests. Booking direct with family-run guesthouses keeps more of the money on the islands, and travel insurance that covers disruption remains sensible, particularly from June to November.
Frequently asked questions
Where is the best place to stay on Carriacou?
Hillsborough is the most practical base, with shops, banks and buses within walking distance; the ferry docks at Tyrrel Bay, a short ride away. L'Esterre near Paradise Beach suits visitors who want to be close to calm swimming and Sandy Island, while Tyrrel Bay appeals to sailors and those who enjoy evening bars by the anchorage.
Has Carriacou recovered from Hurricane Beryl?
Recovery has been gradual since the storm in July 2024. Many homes and businesses have rebuilt or reopened, but the situation varies from property to property. Before booking, check recent reviews and photos, and ask the owner directly about the condition of the building, water, power and internet.
How do you get to Carriacou from Grenada?
The Osprey ferry runs from the Carenage in St George's to Carriacou, docking at Tyrrel Bay (confirm when booking), usually taking roughly 90 minutes to two hours, with onward sailings to Petite Martinique. Small planes have also connected Maurice Bishop International with Lauriston Airport. Schedules change, so confirm current times with the operators before planning connections.
Are there hotels on Petite Martinique?
Accommodation on Petite Martinique is very limited, usually a small guesthouse or rented rooms and apartments, and some properties were damaged by Hurricane Beryl. Contact hosts directly well in advance to confirm they are operating, and expect simple facilities. Many visitors base themselves on Carriacou and visit for a night or a day.
Is cash needed on Carriacou?
Yes, it is wise to carry Eastern Caribbean dollars. ATMs are concentrated in Hillsborough, and smaller guesthouses, bars, minibuses and taxis often prefer or require cash. Larger accommodation providers generally accept cards, but confirm payment methods with your host before arrival.
