Carriacou and Petite Martinique run at a gentler pace than mainland Grenada, and that includes food. There are no long restaurant strips. Instead, a modest number of family-run restaurants, beach bars, guesthouse dining rooms, snackettes and weekend food stalls are scattered around Hillsborough, Tyrrel Bay, Paradise Beach and a few villages, with even fewer options on Petite Martinique. The cooking is often excellent, built around fish, lobster in season, lambi and home-style Caribbean dishes.
Hurricane Beryl, which struck the islands in July 2024, damaged homes, businesses and infrastructure, and the recovery has been uneven. Many eateries have reopened, some are still rebuilding, and opening days can change with the season. This guide explains how eating out works on the sister islands now and how to plan around it.
Where the food is in Carriacou
Hillsborough, the main town, is where most day-to-day food is found: small restaurants and snackettes on and near Main Street, bakeries, rum shops serving food, and supermarkets and grocery shops. It is busiest on weekdays, when government offices and banks are open.
Tyrrel Bay, on the south-west coast at Harvey Vale, is a sheltered anchorage and boatyard area popular with yacht crews. It has historically had a cluster of bars and restaurants along the waterfront, catering to sailors as well as locals, and is lively in the main sailing season from roughly December to May.
Paradise Beach at L'Esterre has beach bars and simple restaurants serving lunch, drinks and fresh fish, and is a natural stop on a beach day. Water taxis run from here and Hillsborough to Sandy Island. Windward, in the north-east, is known for boatbuilding and is quieter, with local shops and bars rather than restaurants. Wherever you are, ask locally what is open that day, because the picture changes.
How things have changed since Hurricane Beryl
Some places reopened quickly; others are still rebuilding. Beryl's damage was severe and widespread. Some restaurants were back within weeks, others took far longer, and some may not return. Lists and reviews online, including those written before July 2024, are not a reliable guide to what is operating.
Opening days may be fewer. Owners rebuilding homes and businesses may open only on certain days or at certain times of year. Lunch is more dependable than dinner.
Supplies can be patchy. Almost everything except fresh fish and some local produce arrives by boat from mainland Grenada. A delayed cargo can mean a dish is unavailable for a few days.
Spending locally helps. Tourism income is central to recovery. Choosing local restaurants, guesthouses and vendors is one of the most useful things a visitor can do.
Petite Martinique
Petite Martinique is small, with a population in the hundreds and a strong maritime and boatbuilding tradition. Food options reflect that scale.
- Very few restaurants: a small number of local eateries, bars and guesthouses that cook for visitors. Some may only cook to order.
- Guesthouse meals are often the most reliable option; ask when booking whether meals can be provided and give notice.
- Small shops sell basics, drinks and snacks, but choice is limited and prices are higher than on the mainland.
- Fish and seafood are excellent when available, straight from local boats.
- Day-trippers from Carriacou, via the inter-island ferry or water taxi, should consider bringing water and snacks and checking return times carefully.
- Cash only is the general rule; do not count on card payments.
Planning meals on the sister islands
A little forward planning makes eating on Carriacou and Petite Martinique easy and enjoyable.
- Ask your accommodation, when booking, which restaurants near you are open and whether they cook dinner every night.
- Book dinner in advance, or ask your host to phone ahead. Small kitchens buy and prepare food according to expected numbers, and some cook only for guests who have reserved.
- Eat lunch as your main meal out when possible; it is the most reliable service of the day.
- Bring enough cash. Hillsborough has bank ATMs, but they can run low around holidays and festivals, and many businesses take cash only.
- If self-catering, shop in Hillsborough soon after arriving, and buy staples on the mainland if you have specific needs.
- During Regatta in early August, Carnival and other festivals, expect crowds, food stalls and busy restaurants; book well ahead.
What to eat, and what is in season
Fish is the mainstay: grilled, fried, stewed or curried, often caught that morning. Lambi (conch), stewed or curried, is a local favourite, and lobster is a highlight when it is legally in season; the closed season in 2025 ran from 1 May to 31 August. Home-style plates of chicken or fish with rice and peas, macaroni pie, provisions and salad are the everyday meal, and roti is easy to find.
Carriacou has its own food traditions tied to its African heritage, its farming calendar and celebrations such as maroons and saraca, when families cook large communal meals. Visitors may encounter these at festivals or if invited to a community event. Local corn, pigeon peas and ground provisions feature strongly, and Jack Iron rum is never far away at a celebration. Fresh fruit is seasonal and depends on the weather; dry spells reduce supply. Mangoes, plums and other tree fruit appear at roadside stands when in season, and buying directly from growers is often the cheapest way to get them.
Practical pitfalls to avoid
Do not expect to wander out at 8 pm and choose from several open restaurants; on many evenings, especially outside the main season, there may be only a few options, and they may be fully booked. Plan dinner by early afternoon. Do not rely on online opening hours, which are often out of date for small island businesses, particularly after the hurricane.
Keep an eye on ferry and flight times if you plan a last meal before leaving. Service is relaxed, and the inter-island ferry will not wait. If you have dietary needs, discuss them with your host in advance; choice on small islands is limited and substitutions may be difficult at short notice. Finally, remember that water supply on Carriacou relies heavily on rainwater cisterns and desalination; ask about drinking water where you stay, and buy bottled water if unsure.
Getting around to eat
Distances on Carriacou are short, but getting to dinner still takes thought. Local minibuses run along the main roads between Hillsborough, Tyrrel Bay, L'Esterre, Bogles, Windward and other villages during the day, and are cheap and friendly, but services become sparse in the evening and on Sundays. Taxis are available, though there are fewer of them than on the mainland; ask your accommodation for a driver they trust, agree the fare and arrange your pickup time before you sit down to eat.
Many visitors walk between nearby spots in daylight, and the walk from Paradise Beach to the road or around Tyrrel Bay is easy. After dark, roads are unlit in many places, with no pavements and occasional loose animals, so carry a torch or use your phone light if you are walking back. Water taxis can link Hillsborough, Paradise Beach and Tyrrel Bay by sea, but they are generally a daytime service; arrange evening trips in advance and agree the price. Hiring a car or scooter gives the most freedom, but a local driving permit is required, and the same drink-driving caution applies here as anywhere.
Frequently asked questions
Are restaurants open in Carriacou after Hurricane Beryl?
Many restaurants and bars in Carriacou have reopened since Hurricane Beryl in July 2024, but some are still rebuilding or open on fewer days. Online listings may be out of date, so ask your accommodation which places are operating and book dinner ahead.
Where are most restaurants in Carriacou?
Most food options are in and around Hillsborough, at Tyrrel Bay in Harvey Vale, and at Paradise Beach in L'Esterre. Windward and other villages have local shops and bars. Petite Martinique has very few eateries, and guesthouse meals are often the most reliable choice there.
Do restaurants in Carriacou accept cards?
Some larger restaurants and guesthouses accept cards, but many small eateries, bars and shops take cash only. Bring Eastern Caribbean dollars, as the bank ATMs in Hillsborough can run low during busy periods such as Regatta and holiday weekends.
Should you book restaurants in Carriacou?
Yes, especially for dinner. Small kitchens prepare food based on expected numbers, and some only cook for diners who have reserved. Booking by early afternoon, or asking your host to call ahead, avoids disappointment.
Is food more expensive in Carriacou than in Grenada?
Groceries and imported goods often cost more in Carriacou and Petite Martinique because they are shipped from mainland Grenada. Restaurant prices vary, but local fish and home-style plates are usually fair value. Stock up on staples in Hillsborough if self-catering.
