Many cruisers arrive in Grenada for the hurricane season and stay for years. The south-coast bays hold a settled liveaboard community, services are good, the island is friendly and easy to get around, and the cost of living on a boat compares well with much of the eastern Caribbean. It is easy to see why some boats never quite get round to leaving.
Life at anchor here has its own routines and frictions, though, and few guides describe them. This page collects the practical things long-stay cruisers learn in their first months: how the community works, how to shop and get things done, the immigration and customs side of a long stay, and the climate problems that test both boat and crew.
Nothing here is secret, and much of it circulates on the morning radio net within days of arrival. Knowing it in advance simply saves the first month of mistakes, wasted taxi fares and a mildewed wardrobe.
The cruising community and the morning net
The heart of liveaboard life on the south coast is the morning cruisers' net on VHF, run by volunteers on most mornings. It covers weather, local news, arrivals and departures, safety notices, shopping and taxi services, social events and a swap-and-sell slot where boat gear changes hands. Tuning in during your first week is the fastest way to learn how things work.
Around it sits a busy social calendar: weekly dominoes and trivia nights at bars around the bays, potlucks on the beach, yoga, volleyball, music jams, and hikes, including the long-running weekly hash, a run-or-walk trail through the countryside that mixes residents, students and cruisers. Many cruisers also volunteer with local schools, clean-ups and charities.
A caution: the cruiser bubble can be comfortable enough that crews spend months in Grenada without getting to know Grenadians beyond taxi drivers and bar staff. The island rewards those who go further, whether to Saturday market in St George's, a village fish fry or church on Sunday.
Shopping, provisioning and getting around
Shopping buses. Local drivers run scheduled shopping trips from the south-coast bays to supermarkets, the market and chandleries, collecting cruisers at dinghy docks. They are announced on the net and are cheaper than taxis for a big shop.
Minibuses. The privately run route buses cover the main roads cheaply and frequently during the day. They are a good way to reach St George's and see the island; fares are a few EC dollars.
Markets and fish. The market in St George's, busiest on Saturday mornings, has the best fruit, vegetables and spices. Fresh fish can be bought from fishermen and at fish markets; ask locally about the morning's catch.
Cooking gas. LPG cylinders can be refilled or exchanged, but fittings on foreign tanks may not match local ones. Many cruisers carry an adaptor or switch to locally available cylinders; ask on the net for the current refill arrangements.
Water and fuel. Marina docks sell fuel and water. Many liveaboards run watermakers or collect rain in the wet season.
Paperwork for a long stay
Cruising permit. The yacht's cruising permit is paid by the month. Keep it current at a customs office rather than accumulating months to pay when you leave, and arrange suspension if the boat is hauled out.
Immigration. The length of your stay is stamped when you clear in. To stay longer, apply for an extension at the Immigration Department in St George's before the stamp expires, with your passport and boat papers; there is a fee. Overstaying can lead to fines and problems when you leave.
Working. Visitors may not work in Grenada without a work permit, and that includes paid boat work, deliveries and teaching on someone else's boat. Remote work for overseas employers sits in a grey area for short stays; for longer arrangements, ask about the residency and permit options rather than assume.
Mail and parcels. Grenada does not have reliable street addresses for boats at anchor. Use a marina or boatyard as a mailing address, by arrangement, and ship parts marked for a yacht in transit.
Health care. Private clinics, pharmacies and dentists in St George's and the Grand Anse area serve most needs; the General Hospital handles emergencies. Long-stay cruisers should hold health insurance that covers evacuation.
Money, phones and internet
Grenada uses the Eastern Caribbean dollar, pegged at EC$2.70 to US$1. US dollars are widely accepted in tourist businesses, usually at a slightly worse rate, but buses, market stalls and rum shops expect EC cash. Banks with ATMs are found in St George's, Grand Anse and the larger towns, and Port Louis Marina has one on site; Carriacou's ATMs are in Hillsborough and can run dry at weekends. Cards are accepted at supermarkets, chandleries and most restaurants, sometimes with a surcharge.
For phones and data, the two mobile networks, Digicel and Flow, both sell prepaid SIM cards and data bundles from their shops and agents, and coverage reaches most anchorages, though signal can be weak deep inside some bays. Many boats use a cellular router with an external antenna to share one data plan and improve reception. Marina and bar wifi exists but is rarely fast enough for video calls at busy times.
What the climate does to boats and people
The Caribbean climate is the hidden cost of living aboard. Grenada is no exception.
- Mould and mildew. High humidity, especially in the wet season, grows mould on headlinings, cushions and clothes within weeks. Ventilation, fans, dehumidifying products and regular cleaning with vinegar are the routine.
- Fast hull growth. Warm water means barnacles and weed build quickly. Boats sitting at anchor for months need regular hull scrubbing, which local divers will do for a fee.
- Insects. Mosquitoes and no-see-ums come out at dusk, particularly near mangroves. Screens on every hatch and repellent are essential; dengue and other mosquito-borne illnesses occur in the region.
- Sun damage. UV destroys canvas, lines, dinghies and plastics faster than in temperate climates. Covers for the dinghy and sail bags extend their life considerably.
- Electronics and corrosion. Salt air corrodes connections, switches and laptops. Spray contacts with corrosion inhibitor, keep spares of key fuses and connectors, and store electronics in sealed boxes with silica gel.
- Heat. Summer nights at anchor can be hot and still. A wind scoop over the forehatch and a couple of good fans make sleep possible.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
Experienced cruisers in Grenada tend to warn newcomers about the same things.
- Leaving the dinghy without a lock at a dock or tied behind the boat at night. Theft is not common, but it happens.
- Letting the cruising permit or immigration stamp lapse while absorbed in boat projects.
- Assuming the anchorage you chose in winter will be comfortable in summer. Southerly swell affects some south-coast bays more in the summer months.
- Running a generator or music late at night in a crowded bay.
- Wearing swimwear away from the beach. Grenadians dress modestly in town; swimsuits and bare chests in St George's are frowned upon.
- Treating the dinghy as a car. Fast dinghies cutting through anchorages and close to swimmers cause injuries every season; slow down inside the bays and use a kill cord.
- Leaving hurricane planning until a storm is forecast. Decide on your plan, and book any storage or shelter, at the start of the season.
Frequently asked questions
Can you live on a boat in Grenada long term?
Many cruisers do, sometimes for years, provided the yacht's cruising permit is kept up and each person's immigration stay is extended as required. Visitors cannot work without a permit. For very long stays, consider asking the Immigration Department about residency options.
What is the cruisers' net in Grenada?
A volunteer-run radio net on VHF most mornings, covering weather, safety, local services, social events and a buy-and-sell slot. It is the main channel of information for the liveaboard community on the south coast. Listen during your first week to learn how things work.
How do cruisers get groceries in Grenada?
Most use the shopping buses that collect cruisers at dinghy docks and drive them to supermarkets and markets on set days, or take the local minibuses. Saturday market in St George's has the best fresh produce. Marina shops cover basics in between.
Is it expensive to live aboard in Grenada?
Anchoring costs nothing beyond the monthly cruising permit, which keeps costs down. Imported goods, boat parts and eating out at tourist restaurants are expensive; local produce, minibuses and rum-shop meals are cheap. Budgets vary hugely depending on how much you rely on marinas and imported food.
Which bays are best for living at anchor?
Prickly Bay, Mount Hartman Bay, Hog Island, Clarkes Court Bay and Woburn Bay hold most of the long-stay community, each with its own character. Sheltered inner bays are calmer in summer; Prickly Bay has the most services but can roll in southerly swell.